Describe what you can see on both sides, keep uncertain defects separate, and compare with similarly worn raw copies. A home inspection does not establish a numerical grade.
Put this guide to work
Use the details you have confirmed to research your card. Leave uncertain fields unconfirmed.
Research your card →Start with a description, not a predicted grade
Two copies of the same card can look similar in a search thumbnail and very different under a lamp. Before comparing prices, make a short condition note. “White spot on lower-left back corner” is more useful than “probably a 9.”
Inspect in a clean area with a soft, plain surface. Change the direction of the light before removing protection. If you handle a raw card, avoid the printed surfaces. Keep a graded card sealed.
Check every corner on both sides
Work clockwise so you do not skip a corner. Look for exposed white stock, rounding, a folded tip or a dent. A colored border can make wear easier to see, but a clean-looking front does not rule out back-corner damage.
Use a sharp close-up or modest magnification to record a suspicious area. A single bright pixel can be glare or image processing; examine the physical card under another light before calling it damage. Small whitening by itself cannot establish a particular grade.
Follow the edges, then move the reflection across the surface
Inspect the four edges for chips and rough patches. On the surface, change the viewing angle and look for scratches, print lines, indentations, stains and wrinkles. Repeat on the back. Distinguish a mark on the sleeve from one on the card without rubbing or polishing the card.
Manufacturing flaws still matter when describing condition. Do not assume a pack-fresh card is flawless, and do not apply cleaning products or try to press a crease flat. PSA’s standards address alterations as well as visible wear.
Measure centering only where the design allows it
For a clearly bordered design, compare opposite border widths in a square-on photograph. Divide each width by their combined width: borders of 2 mm and 1 mm give about 67/33, not 65/35. Perspective distortion and an asymmetric design can make that calculation misleading.
A centering ratio is one observation, not a grade. Read the grading company’s current standards directly if preparing a submission; surface, corners, edges and other criteria still apply. This website does not measure centering from uploaded photographs.
Turn the notes into a fair sold comparison
Record location and visibility: “front scratch visible at an angle; back upper-right corner whitening; no crease observed.” “No crease observed” describes your inspection without guaranteeing that no hidden defect exists. Photograph significant flaws for a prospective buyer.
Compare raw with raw and inspect the sale photographs. Separate visibly creased copies, lots and graded cards from the closest matches. If the comparison’s condition is unclear, mark that limitation rather than quietly treating it as identical.
FAQ
Can a clear phone photo prove a PSA 10?
No. It can document visible details, but it can miss subtle surface damage or alterations and does not replace professional examination.
Should a damaged card go straight into bulk?
No. Identify it first. Condition affects comparisons, but damage does not automatically eliminate collector interest.
Related guides
Sources
Product details and dates were checked against these primary sources. Manufacturer descriptions are evidence, not market prices.